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> Just another home build 2056 upgrade...but this one is mine!, Update: Crank gear and Distributor gear are here and a new set of main bearings
rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 08:10 AM
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Porsche 914 2056 upgrade

1.7 case upgrade from 1.7.> 2.0 > 2056

1.7 heads Registers are open to fit 2.0 cylinders (UPGRADE for engine combo)
40/34 valves 53.9 cc (turns out these are 1.8 heads)

Cam Shaft /lifters RABY 9530. See Cam Card

KB 96 Pistons and rings (2.0 rods) EMW

H-Beam rods ARP bolts. EMW

2.0 Crank Standard /.25 rods

Webber 40 and 44 carbs

Short or Long intake manifolds 3/4 bolt

Malory Unilite Grey grey Distributor

Kerry Hunter Headers. 1.5. Pete Weber 1 5/8 4-2-1 with Evo 2 muffler
with 02 bung at collector

Innovate LM-1 with RPM

Balance internals

Balance Crank NEW flywheel and Pressure plate with blower

1.7 and 2.0 tins complete

Recommend CR 9.0 t o 9.5.? 9.0 CR with Deck height to .040

Recommend RPM range. 6500?

Est HP GOAL. 130-140 HP?

After a tear down of my 2.0l engine I started the build up to the 2056 big bore upgrade. Having a Bridgeport I started with the (5) 3/8 oil galley plug on the block halves
Drilling a hole in the plugs and a slide hammer to remove the old plugs then started the installation of the new pugs I was able to order from Type 4 store.






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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 08:45 AM
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Perhaps it is time to start a you tube channel for this...Hmmm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 08:52 AM
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Note to self:

Remove bearing alignment pins prior to power washing case of chips from machining oil galley plugs. Lost 2 pins
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Mark Henry
post Jan 19 2021, 09:22 AM
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Not everyone has or wants dropbox, I didn't even bother looking.
You can post pics here directly, you don't need a hosting service.

The plug on the rear of 1/2 side is very close to the flywheel, you have to make sure you're tapped deep enough, but you also must make sure to trim the backside of the plug.
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 09:43 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 19 2021, 07:22 AM) *

Not everyone has or wants dropbox, I didn't even bother looking.
You can post pics here directly, you don't need a hosting service.

The plug on the rear of 1/2 side is very close to the flywheel, you have to make sure you're tapped deep enough, but you also must make sure to trim the backside of the plug.


Great advise Mark Henry, I did trim a second pipe tap for "bottom tapping" and the single hole on the back near the flywheel does not have a cross feed passage so tapping deeper is not an issue

I did try to post my video here but were too big, so I m going to reduce the resolution on camera or video extension

Yeah, that is a pain trying to view on a device without an account...Ill fix that for sure
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ddire333
post Jan 19 2021, 10:17 AM
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Will be taking on similar soon. I know it's recommended to upgrade the oil galley plugs, i'm wondering how much this is best practice vs required? If they the existing have stayed in place 45 years, what makes them more likely to be problem now?
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 10:31 AM
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Required, I would have to say NO

Best Practice. I'm sure the oil pressure on the plug can get high when you are pumping 50 wt oil on a cold day with a 30mm t-1 pump..Loosing a galley plug or having one leak can be time consuming at least to fix the leak and cost you a rebuild if the plug comes out at worst. This is an EZ prevention and low cost, so I can not see why it would not be done while building
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 10:39 AM
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 10:40 AM
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mepstein
post Jan 19 2021, 10:41 AM
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We had a plug come loose while switching in a used engine to replace a broken one. No reason for it to come loose but it did. It seems like the smart thing to do if you are rebuilding.
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 11:48 AM
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Looks like the PO gouged the case pulling the front seal at least a few times....by the looks of things
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Superhawk996
post Jan 19 2021, 12:07 PM
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QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jan 19 2021, 11:40 AM) *

video was too big so . . . .


Post video to YouTube.

Once it's in YouTube you can link to it here with it's embed link from YouTube -- See FAQ. I've done it multiple times in my build thread. Can assist you if interested once you have it in YouTube.
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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 12:39 PM
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Thanks Super hawk I added links for Youtube in OP and here:
https://youtu.be/50CYceSrBq0

https://youtu.be/GOMa6nqbkBQ
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Al Meredith
post Jan 19 2021, 02:52 PM
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With 20/50 oil and a 30MM pump I pump about 80PSI at idle when cold on my 2056. I cover my freeze plugs with JB weld to insure a good seal.
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Mark Henry
post Jan 19 2021, 03:29 PM
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QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jan 19 2021, 01:39 PM) *

Thanks Super hawk I added links for Youtube in OP and here:
https://youtu.be/50CYceSrBq0

https://youtu.be/GOMa6nqbkBQ




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rfinegan
post Jan 19 2021, 04:48 PM
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Mark Henry, thanks for the tip on embedding , its been a while since I have done this kind of thing,,,

EZ when you know how
Best Regards
-Robert

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Superhawk996
post Jan 19 2021, 05:34 PM
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Ta da! Nice work - just like an old pro now.

Looking forward to more on this build.
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rfinegan
post Jan 25 2021, 06:50 AM
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UPDATE: Just received the Engine yoke for the HF stand from [url=https://ljaircooledengines.com[/url]. for under 40.00 (less shipping) bolted right on and woks fine with cheep engine stand or option to mount Desk top.
ALSO. I purchased a set of used Early Weber 44 IDF carbs with the roller accelerator pumps ( Italian ) I think they will clean up nicely . I also have set of IDF 40 with 32 vents from previous build to choose for this build. The 44 IDF have 36 vents. The last set of 44 with big vents really made the top end on the 2L pull hard.

The camshaft for my 2056 is the VW Type 4 Porsche 914 912E Basic 9530 Cam Kit and leaning towards the IDF 44 carbs. But not sure what vents to start with? Should work well with the Kerry hunter heads and Evo 2 muffler (still working out the details for the heads)

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rfinegan
post Jan 25 2021, 09:30 AM
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yokeAttached Image
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VaccaRabite
post Jan 26 2021, 08:00 AM
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Though I have built an engine on that type of yolk, its made for T1 engines and for a T4 engine it puts a LOT of stress on the engine case especially when the engine is more dressed.

The better kind had a ring to let the case bear against. There is a very expensive one ($300) and a cheaper on like I have that has three spokes and a 1/2 ring. And for the life of me I can't remember who made mine. :/

Either way, I would not use that yolk for your engine build. Its rolling dice. You may be fine, or you may have a broken case. At the very least, weld a 1/2 ring around it for the case to bear against.

Zach
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