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> Newly acquired 70 914 stock.
Bmw635
post Feb 19 2020, 09:18 PM
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Just bought a 70 914 1.7L FI ,all stock, last ran in 1997. Planning on getting a battery to turn it over and see where it’s at, suck out the fuel in tank, replace fuel filter, fuel hose, change oil, may be do compression test, install new spark plugs. Any idea on where/what else I should do/look at to get it running again?

I am versed with most BMW and 928 but still learning this 914. I want to get it running then sell as I don’t have room to restore or keep it for now. TIA.

Peter
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SirAndy
post Feb 19 2020, 09:35 PM
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QUOTE(Bmw635 @ Feb 19 2020, 07:18 PM) *
Just bought a 70 914 1.7L FI ,all stock, last ran in 1997. Planning on getting a battery to turn it over and see where it’s at, suck out the fuel in tank, replace fuel filter, fuel hose, change oil, may be do compression test with new spark plugs. Any idea on where/what else I should do/look at to get it running again?

I am versed with most BMW and 928 but still learning this 914. I want to get it running then sell as I don’t have room to restore or keep it for now. TIA.

I never understood why people try to "turn over" an engine that hasn't run for 10/20/30 years. You have no idea what it looks like in there but you think it's a good idea to "turn it over" anyways?

That's a sure way to cause lots of damage to the internals.

Just treat the engine as a core, drop it (easy to do), go through it, clean it up and once everything checks out, fire her up ...
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Ansbacher
post Feb 19 2020, 09:46 PM
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"may be do compression test with new spark plugs"

DOES NOT COMPUTE

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Mikey914
post Feb 19 2020, 10:09 PM
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I get it. Your excighted by the find. Its possible it could run and yes that would be cool, but theres a checklist of what you shold do before going there. Will be easier tk get a good look while its out.

1st replace all fuel hoses.
2nd check intale for mouse nests, also poke around the enginge tin.
3rd drain the oil, its garbage by now.
Next its an issue of if your rings arr stuck or theres debris in the combustion chamber.
If you can turn by hand easily good if not take it apart.

Some soak with seafoam, let sit overnight. Drain, and replace with fresh oil and check compression.
If you have got this far odds are good it will fire up. You will want to replace vacuume hoses while its out.

Im sure others may have a few other pointers.
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bkrantz
post Feb 19 2020, 10:20 PM
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If you want to sell it, don't bother seeing if it will start. Your best buyers are 914 fans, who know enough about cars that have sat for many years (and would have concerns about fuel leaks from old hoses and fires). You might gently see if the engine turns over--most buyers will want to know that.

More critical for value is the shape of the body and interior. Learn about the typical rust locations, and do a body survey--and get photos.
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Chris914n6
post Feb 19 2020, 10:48 PM
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It's going to need the whole FI system gone thru. Plus removing the tin to clean out the rats nest and crap from the cooling fins. Plus ALL the fuel lines. And pull the gas tank for new hoses and a screen and clean that out.

20 years is a long time on a 50 year old car.

Like has been said, the condition of the chassis is the more important factor as it's expensive to properly fix rust. A 1.7L is practically worthless and easy to replace.
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Bmw635
post Feb 19 2020, 10:58 PM
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Yip, excited to find a good car. I’d keep the car but with 2 businesses, a Land Cruiser for DD, and a supercharged E38 and a 928, wife is not happy that it will take me another 10 yrs to finish as I am trying to finish the 928 engine reseal after 4 yrs. Had a 74 914 1.8L from 97-2000 so I had some exposure.

Engine turns over in gears when pushing the car so it’s not seized. Car sat in garage for 20yrs so no rats/rabbits nest. Battery tray has some rust but still solid, no rear trunk rust, front trunk has slight rust under spare tire and around the hood seal by the pop up headlight. Ideal for restoration.

Looks like I should drain and remove tank to replace filter, fuel hoses, check pump in the front. Drain oil, check compression, replace fuel hoses, spark plugs in the bay. I want to keep it but want to keep the marriage too so I might take it to storage and deal with it later.


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Bmw635
post Feb 19 2020, 11:03 PM
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More pics.

What's the purist opinion about replacing the FI with dual carbs or refresh the FI? I guess cost to rebuild the FI might stop this if it does not start.

As for oil weight, what’s the crowd here running? I used 15-50W Dino in my LC, 0-40W synthetic in my E38, 10-50W Dino in 928. Thoughts are thicker oil leaves oil coat lingers help protect old high revvving engine and proven in couple 928 race engine.


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ndfrigi
post Feb 19 2020, 11:11 PM
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Hi Fellow OC 914 owner!

Congratulations on your new 914! Looks clean inside and out. Previous owner did a good job storing it.
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Larmo63
post Feb 19 2020, 11:22 PM
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That car looks NICE. Congratulations.
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Mikey914
post Feb 19 2020, 11:26 PM
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From a value stand point - FI adds value as they run well and are stock. That and unless you change the cam, it's difficult to not have to tweek with it. You run rich if it's a hot day or you go up in elevation. Running too rich will cause plug fouling, but you don't want to be too lean. It's not too bad, but it bothers me on my 2.0 and I'm changing it back.
Many new parts are available for the FI, so you should be able to keep it stock.

If all goes well you won't need anything.
WHATEVER YOU DO..... DON'T DRIVE IT.[
You'll be hooked and will have a difficult time selling it.
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Bmw635
post Feb 19 2020, 11:27 PM
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QUOTE(ndfrigi @ Feb 19 2020, 11:11 PM) *

Hi Fellow OC 914 owner!

Congratulations on your new 914! Looks clean inside and out. Previous owner did a good job storing it.


Thank you for the warm welcome. Yea, car stayed with 2 owners in same family since new before I broke the cycle so it was well kept.

Any local 914 shop that you know of? I think some guy named Glen but don’t remember whether he’s in Orange or some where in LA that restore and repair 914? TIA.
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ndfrigi
post Feb 20 2020, 11:03 AM
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QUOTE(Bmw635 @ Feb 19 2020, 09:27 PM) *

QUOTE(ndfrigi @ Feb 19 2020, 11:11 PM) *

Hi Fellow OC 914 owner!

Congratulations on your new 914! Looks clean inside and out. Previous owner did a good job storing it.


Thank you for the warm welcome. Yea, car stayed with 2 owners in same family since new before I broke the cycle so it was well kept.

Any local 914 shop that you know of? I think some guy named Glen but don’t remember whether he’s in Orange or some where in LA that restore and repair 914? TIA.


Are you close to Sunset Beach? You can try PCH Garage in Sunset Beach. Some members here use this shop. I’m sure Jim Hoyland will also recommend this shop.

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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Feb 20 2020, 11:12 AM
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I think that there was a thread on this just this week


QUOTE(Bmw635 @ Feb 19 2020, 08:18 PM) *

Just bought a 70 914 1.7L FI ,all stock, last ran in 1997. Planning on getting a battery to turn it over and see where it’s at, suck out the fuel in tank, replace fuel filter, fuel hose, change oil, may be do compression test, install new spark plugs. Any idea on where/what else I should do/look at to get it running again?

I am versed with most BMW and 928 but still learning this 914. I want to get it running then sell as I don’t have room to restore or keep it for now. TIA.

Peter

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RestoReese
post Feb 23 2020, 10:09 PM
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I bought a 1971 914 that had been sitting for 10 years in a garage in So. Cal. Beside to pull the spark plugs and get some Fogging lubricant to spray inside the cylinders. all of the oil has drained to the bottom and you want to ensure there is good lubricant before turning over. The metal on metal can seriously damage the cylinder walls if you don't..

The fogging spray is cheap and pulling the plugs only takes 15 minutes. Worth every penny and the time.
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PlaysWithCars
post Feb 24 2020, 11:17 PM
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QUOTE(RestoReese @ Feb 23 2020, 08:09 PM) *

I bought a 1971 914 that had been sitting for 10 years in a garage in So. Cal. Beside to pull the spark plugs and get some Fogging lubricant to spray inside the cylinders. all of the oil has drained to the bottom and you want to ensure there is good lubricant before turning over. The metal on metal can seriously damage the cylinder walls if you don't..

The fogging spray is cheap and pulling the plugs only takes 15 minutes. Worth every penny and the time.

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Or squirt a little Marvel Mystery oil in there. It will help loosen up the rings if they are gummy and stuck. Challenge is getting it all around the cylinder and not just in a puddle at the bottom. The fogging oil delivery system takes care of this for you.
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EdwardBlume
post Feb 25 2020, 04:32 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Nice early car! What's month and year build date? Add it to the member's VINs.

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Bmw635
post Feb 29 2020, 10:43 PM
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Is there a decent June 70 914 wiring diagram available as I searched the net and most are difficult to read/zoom.

Cleaned out fuel line and tank, crank engine but no spark. Removed point and check gap finally got spark. No fuel pressure and foind blown fuse, replaced fuse but pump still not working.
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theer
post Mar 1 2020, 07:19 AM
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Fuel pump could be seized- likely after so long.

I’ve had luck spraying carb cleaner in there to dissolve old gas residue and bench testing by running alternately forward and backward to loosen it up. Don’t let it run too long without fuel running through it, though.
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Bmw635
post Mar 1 2020, 12:21 PM
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The fuel came out of the filter and before injectors were ok, not gelled or gummy. You mean the gears could be seized? Thanks.

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